The paramedic whispered in my ear ‘God will never leave you or forsake you.’
I think sharks are beautiful creatures, and I don’t think we should stop going in the ocean because of them. You drive down the road and you get in an accident, but most people end up driving down the road again. Surfing is you’re going into their home and it’s just a natural part of life.
We all need that extra friend outside of our immediate family to talk about that extra stuff you wouldn’t normally talk to your parents about.
To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean – that’s scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it went.
Doing everything with one arm, being well-known, and having a book and a movie, it’s fairly abnormal. As far as just not having to worry about past experiences, I’ve healed very well.
I don’t know how long I’ll be competing, but I’ll always be surfing. I’ll be surfing until I’m old.
I enjoy hanging out with friends, going on hikes and playing tennis. I also enjoy Bible study and making dinners. I have a pretty mellow life away from the water.
Like, with one arm I know I can surf, but competitive surfing can be really frustrating, and sometimes you don’t do as well as you want to. It can be discouraging at times. But whenever I do get frustrated, I just focus on God.
I can’t change it, That was God’s plan for my life and I’m going to go with it.
Your looks do not define who you are.
Both of my parents are surfers, of course, so they understood where my passion for surfing was at and I guess they saw the talent that I had.
There’s no such thing as a handicap – it’s all in your head.
God has a lot more to give and to offer than the world has to give.
Losing an arm is kinda lame at one point, but at the same time, so much good has come out of it.
Love is bigger than any tidal wave or fear.
Strive to find things to be thankful for and just look for the good in who you are!
I’m actually not star-struck. I like to give people their own space and admire them from a distance.
I just try to be myself and not conform to something I’m not and just continue doing what I do. I just try not to think about the fact that I’m an inspiration for people.
I gave my heart to Jesus when I was five-years-old and since then it’s been a special relationship. To me it’s not a religion; it’s just talking to God, reading his word, and doing my best to honor him in everything I do.
I think passion is something that’s more powerful than even love. It’s something that you’re not willing to let go of, and you’ll work really hard to make sure that stays a part of your life.
Fear is something that can really hold us all back from different things in life. It’s important to notice what your fears are and try to conquer them.