I can be surfing the exact same wave and then sometimes something will just set off, even if I’m riding the same board the whole time. Something will just set off and it just feels like you can push just that extra bit harder.
Some people have like a certain person, when they’re around they get like a gnarly energy. I see it in other people, if a certain person’s around they compete really well or something like that. I think it’s sort of like that.
Sometimes I wish I had every different sort of board that I could just bring out for this surf when I feeling like surfing this board. I love riding old single fins and twin fins.