Don’t talk – keep it in your heart.
Just take your time – wave comes. Let the other guys go, catch another one.
Every day of the year where the water is 76, day and night, and the waves roll high, I take my sled, without runners, and coast down the face of the big waves that roll in at Waikiki.
Out of water, I am nothing.
I have never coasted down a hill of frozen rain.
I have never seen snow and do not know what winter means.
I am only happy when I am swimming like a fish.