Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently its the most difficult thing in the world.
Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you’re really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing’s as raw of a sport as it gets.
It’s like the mafia. Once you’re in – you’re in. There’s no getting out.
Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
Surfing is my religion, if I have one.
It’s all about where your mind’s at.
A wave isn’t like a skate ramp or mountain; everything’s moving around, and you have to time how to move along with it. That’s easier with a slow wave.
Most anything Ive ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.
I’ve been in a poor physical shape many times in my career and I’ve had some of my best results. My best performances happened because my mind was in the right place. The mind is definitely stronger than the body.
I’ve always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.
For a surfer, it’s never-ending. There’s always some wave you want to surf.
Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.
This was the most emotional title of my career. I was the youngest champion, and now I’m the oldest.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it’s almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
I’m the competitor, I’m the one who has to wear the brunt of that being a good or bad score. And I’m not too worried about it. I don’t know why so many are to be honest with you.
Fatherhood isn’t always a planned thing, but when it happens you just do it. It’s very natural and in that sense it’s not really difficult.
I want to surf better tomorrow. I want to surf better in 10 years. When I’m 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now – for me it’s a lifelong journey.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
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