Surfing’s one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what’s behind.
California has more distractions, more activities for the kids, more driving.
Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.
Most men need their wives to need them, and I’ve seen that lead to their downfall.
Normally, people who are frustrated out in the water are frustrated on land. They brought their frustration with them. If you go to a beach where there are a hundred guys out, and you paddle out looking to ride waves alone, you’re setting yourself up.
Life with three daughters can be nerve-wracking, but it’s amazing to be loved by so many different women.
When you don’t use sugar in your diet, all of the sudden fruits are really sweet. Honey is really sweet. Your taste buds change. I’m not psycho never have anything sweet, because that takes too much energy. The stress on your body just isn’t worth it.
Travel’s the great educator, especially for the girls. You can’t put a value on it.
When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.
There needs to be a reason to go, so you go deeper into whatever place you’re visiting to find those unforgettable experiences.
You have to decide what level you want to participate in your children’s lives. The more you do, the better your relationship is going to be. You have to listen to your instincts. You know when it’s time to lay down the law.
In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.
I’m the dad, the cleanup guy. I deal with the bigger messes. But I also provide more adventures and excitement. It works out.
We are our own worst inhibitors.
The amount of things you can do with a kettlebell is unsurpassed by any other training equipment – dumbbells, resistance machines, free weights.
Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.
Your path is yours alone. And if it’s the path less traveled, that’s absolutely fine. The world doesn’t need more conformists. The world needs more people who create and question and search.
Don’t be afraid to really use your imagination. Let it run wild. It’s one of the most powerful tools you’ve got.
Everything comes down to attitude: You determine what yours is, and the external world will reflect it back.
I think the key to happiness is maximizing each day. So if you’re unhappy, here’s a simple prescription: Live harder.
What we’ve been given is precious. It’s majestic in its smallest details and its largest manifestations. Anyone not humbled by the power of the ocean should take a good, long look at a fifty-foot wave. If you don’t have respect for a wave, it’s only a matter of time before the ocean teaches you to get some. We’re all equal before the wave.