Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.
Surfing’s one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what’s behind.
All training does is get us back what we lost when we stopped having to hunt down our food. Our bodies are built for it already.
In all successful relationships, the man respects the woman – and it takes a special guy to handle a successful woman. You have to be confident in who you are and what you do.
I do need to travel with a purpose, though. I can’t go somewhere to just hang out with friends.
When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we’d probably learn how to play golf pretty well.
California has more distractions, more activities for the kids, more driving.
Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.
Most men need their wives to need them, and I’ve seen that lead to their downfall.
Normally, people who are frustrated out in the water are frustrated on land. They brought their frustration with them. If you go to a beach where there are a hundred guys out, and you paddle out looking to ride waves alone, you’re setting yourself up.
Life with three daughters can be nerve-wracking, but it’s amazing to be loved by so many different women.
When you don’t use sugar in your diet, all of the sudden fruits are really sweet. Honey is really sweet. Your taste buds change. I’m not psycho never have anything sweet, because that takes too much energy. The stress on your body just isn’t worth it.
Travel’s the great educator, especially for the girls. You can’t put a value on it.
When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.
There needs to be a reason to go, so you go deeper into whatever place you’re visiting to find those unforgettable experiences.
You have to decide what level you want to participate in your children’s lives. The more you do, the better your relationship is going to be. You have to listen to your instincts. You know when it’s time to lay down the law.
In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.
I’m the dad, the cleanup guy. I deal with the bigger messes. But I also provide more adventures and excitement. It works out.
We are our own worst inhibitors.
The amount of things you can do with a kettlebell is unsurpassed by any other training equipment – dumbbells, resistance machines, free weights.