What I love the most about surfing is that it’s my first love. It’s the first thing I can remember being consumed by.
The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you’re never going to beat the ocean.
Fear – It’s a fine line between that and pushing yourself. You definitely reach new heights when you push. But fear is good. Fear keeps us alive. If we didn’t have it, we’d be doing crazy things and getting in sticky situations.
Experiencing different cultures is one of the best things a human being can do. It puts your whole world into perspective.
Surfers are in tune with the weather because if there’s a storm coming, there are waves coming. I love the rain.
Life’s too short to sit around and wait.
As long as I’m still surfing wherever I am, I’ll always be happy.
Winning is euphoric, but it lasts a short time. You’ve got to lap it up, then move on to the next thing. I think I’ve kept winning because I haven’t attached myself to past successes.
I’ve always had a determination to perfect whatever I’m doing. If I can’t do something, I work on it until I figure it out.
Waves are fascinating, the way they are created by wind far out at sea and groomed by different winds as they come closer to shore. We surfers ride the very last part of the wave’s life before it crashes and disappears, never to be seen again.
My sisters did ballet when we were younger and I remember sitting in the car with my dad and going ‘can we hurry up and go surfing!?, I’m sick of waiting for my sisters and their ballet classes.’