The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
Make sure your worst enemy doesn’t live between your two ears.
Exercising underwater also creates tremendous benefits by challenging your body in ways you can’t on dry land.
People always ask me when they see me working out, “What are you training for?” The answer is I’m training for life.
If you can look at one of these waves and you don’t believe that there’s something greater than we are, then you’ve got some serious analyzing to do and you should go sit under a tree for a very long time.
People don’t want to do new things if they think they’re going to be bad at them or people are going to laugh at them. You have to be willing to subject yourself to failure, to be bad, to fall on your head and do it again, and try stuff that you’ve never done in order to be the best you can be.
Do not be afraid of death. Be afraid of the half-lived life!
I know that if I scare myself once a day, I’m a better person.
The idea is to become an old wizard; to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who’s really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.
I don’t want to not live because of my fear of what could happen.
Surfing’s one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what’s behind.
We’re all equal before a wave.
All training does is get us back what we lost when we stopped having to hunt down our food. Our bodies are built for it already.
In all successful relationships, the man respects the woman – and it takes a special guy to handle a successful woman. You have to be confident in who you are and what you do.
I do need to travel with a purpose, though. I can’t go somewhere to just hang out with friends.
When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we’d probably learn how to play golf pretty well.